ELEMENT

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA

Elements describe the essential outcomes of a unit of competency.

Performance criteria describe the performance needed to demonstrate achievement of the element. Where bold italicised text is used, further information is detailed in the required skills and knowledge section and the range statement. Assessment of performance is to be consistent with the evidence guide.

1. Select suitable equipment for belay system.

1.1. Select a belay system according to contextual issues and to minimise environmental impact.

1.2. Identify and select equipment according to relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures.

1.3. Select anchors that meet the requirements of the climb and abilities of the participants.

1.4. Assess condition of the anchors, including performance under likely load.

1.5. Choose a belay device that is suitable to the natural surface conditions and belayer's ability.

1.6. Complete all necessary equipment safety checks, according to organisational policies and procedures, to ensure effective working order.

2. Set up belay system.

2.1. Rig multiple anchors, ensuring equalisation and considering direction of applied forces in the even of a fall.

2.2. Tie knots and rig ropes suitable for the type of belay system established.

2.3. Establish a belay from which the belayer is able to escape and safely perform a rescue.

2.4. Avoid or remove belay hazards, to maintain safety of belayer.

2.5. Determine the need for, and establish, back up belay systems.

Required skills

problem-solving skills to select appropriate anchors and belay systems for the context and conditions of climbing activity

rope handling and knot tying skills to rig ropes and anchors adequately and safely

emergency response skills appropriate to the location to enable initial response to emergencies and personal health care.

Required knowledge

relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures to enable safe conduct of all activities

minimal impact climbing codes to ensure protection of the environment

equipment types, characteristics and technology used to establish belays for multi pitch climbing on natural surfaces

care and maintenance of equipment to ensure prolonged life span and safety requirements, as advised by the manufacturer's specifications and recommendations for equipment use

belay and anchor systems appropriate for multi pitch natural climbing surfaces

technical climbing and equipment knowledge to establish top and bottom belays

types of knots, their advantages and disadvantages and their impact on roping activities

emergency procedures, potential hazards and obstacles relevant to the location to ensure safety of self and others.

The evidence guide provides advice on assessment and must be read in conjunction with the performance criteria, required skills and knowledge, range statement and the Assessment Guidelines for the Training Package.

Overview of assessment

Critical aspects for assessment and evidence required to demonstrate competency in this unit

Evidence of the following is essential:

independently selects appropriate equipment and carries out safety checks to ensure effective working order

uses discretion and judgement to determine belay system required for climbing in routine and non routine multi pitch contexts

differentiates between the types of belay systems, anchors and knots and their suitability to different rigging situations

determines the need for, and establishes, back up belay systems to ensure safety of self and other participants.

Context of and specific resources for assessment

Assessment must ensure participation in multiple rigging activities to demonstrate competence and consistency of performance.

Assessment must also ensure access to:

resources and information regarding climbing and belaying equipment

suitable natural multi pitch climbing sites with fixed and natural anchors and varying qualities and features that allow participant to demonstrate rigging skills

other climbing participants, to assist in belaying and rigging

equipment such as anchors, harnesses, belay systems, belay devices, slings, ropes, karabiners and first aid equipment.

Method of assessment

A range of assessment methods should be used to assess practical skills and knowledge. The following examples are appropriate for this unit:

oral or written questioning to assess knowledge of relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures to ensure safe and appropriate use of all climbing equipment

observation of safe participation and demonstration of setting up belay systems suitable to different contexts and participants

observation of dealing with contingencies, such as equipment failure

third-party reports from a supervisor detailing performance.

Holistic assessment with other units relevant to the industry sector, workplace and job role is recommended, for example:

SISOVTR402A Perform complex vertical rescues

SISOCLN406A Apply multi pitch lead climbing skills on natural surfaces.

The range statement relates to the unit of competency as a whole. It allows for different work environments and situations that may affect performance. Bold italicised wording, if used in the performance criteria, is detailed below. Essential operating conditions that may be present with training and assessment (depending on the work situation, needs of the candidate, accessibility of the item, and local industry and regional contexts) may also be included.

Belay system may include:

top belay

bottom belay

Contextual issues may include:

weather conditions, including times

season

transport

location

trip distance and duration

group objectives

group size.

Environmental impact may include:

rock dislodgement

compacting of soil

damage to flora and fauna.

Equipment may include:

ropes and cord

tape and slings

karabiners

nuts

Spring loaded caming devices (SLCDs)

Hexes

belay devices.

Nut tool

Relevant legislation may include:

occupational health and safety

permits or permission for access

environmental regulations.

Organisational policies and procedures may include:

operating procedures and company or enterprise policies

occupational health and safety

use and maintenance of equipment

emergency procedures

code of ethics.

Anchors may include:

natural

fixed

artificial.

Participants may include:

experienced

inexperienced

adults

children

tourists, club members, clients, school or youth groups.

Condition of the anchors may include:

age

location

wear

decay

corrosion

weathering

environmental stress

insect damage.

Likely load may include:

group size

set up

type of climb conducted

climber ability

technique

possible forces generated during a fall.

Belay device may include:

plate devices

auto-locking devices

tubular devices

hitch i.e. Munter (Italian hitch).

Natural surface conditions may include:

cliffs

boulder

rock type.

Safety checks may include:

A - anchors - secure and suitable to application

B - buckles - locked as per manufacturers recommendations

C - connectors - locked, secured and orientated

D - devices - threaded correctly and secured

E - everything else including end of rope knots, friction hitches, belayer ready, helmet chin strap, clothing, jewellery and hair secured

F - friend - cross check.

Applied forces may include:

upward

downward.

Knots may include:

Figure 8- rethread, on bight and in line

bowline

alpine butterfly

tape or water knot

clove hitch.

Hazards may include:

temperature extremes

slippery or unstable terrain

dangerous animals and insects

stinging trees and nettles

dense vegetation

group management hazards.

Safety of belayer may include:

attachment to anchor or alternate safety system

positioning out of direct line of equipment fall

minimising movement of the belayer in the event of a fall.